The performance of the textiles, together with the fiber properties, is explained by the structure of the yarn, the construction of the fabric and the special finishes applied. The type of yarn that forms the fabric construction affects the durability, appearance and comfort properties of the fabric. The durability of the yarn is the first factor affecting the durability of the fabric. Yarn strength depends not only on the durability of the fibers forming the yarn, but also on the structure of the yarn. It is twist that holds the yarns produced from staple fibers together. If the twist force is insufficient or the fibers break, it is inevitable that the yarn will break.

However, applying too much twist will also adversely affect the tenacity of the yarn. The higher the number of twists, the higher the frictional force that prevents the fibers from slipping, which in turn affects yarn tenacity. Therefore, the thick yarns are more effective in the durability of the fabric than thin yarns.

The twist is made to increase the contact surface of the fibers with each other, to give the fibers a permanent appearance and to hold them together. The yarn is strengthened by twisting. Twist is generally expressed by the number of turns of a certain length. The amount of twist varies depending on the type of fibers such as cotton, polyester or viscose, where the yarn is to be used and the spinning machine used. In authorized testing and inspection organizations, these features are tested to the following standard:

• TS EN ISO 2061 Textile - Twist determination of yarns - Direct counting method

An important test for the textile industry is the durability tests of fabrics. It is expected that the fabrics will be tear resistant regardless of the application area. Tear strength of fabrics is determined by different methods such as wing method, tongue method, ballistic pendulum method or trouser method. The main standards used in these tests in the competent testing and inspection organizations are:

• TS EN ISO 13937-1 Textile - Tear properties of fabrics - Part 1: Determination of tear force by ballistic pendulum method
• TS EN ISO 13937-2 ... Section 2: Determination of the tear strength of test specimens in the form of pants (single tear method)
• TS EN ISO 13937-3 ... Section 3: Determination of the tear force of wing-shaped test specimens (single tear method)
• TS EN ISO 13937-4 ... Section 4: Determination of the tear strength of test specimens in tongue form (double tear test
• ASTM D1424 Tear strength of fabrics with falling pendulum apparatus

The abrasion resistance of woven fabrics is determined by the change in appearance. Wear is the deformation of the fabric by rubbing against another surface. The standards used in these tests are:

• TS EN ISO 12947-1 Textile - Determination of abrasion resistance of fabrics by Martindale method - Part 1: Martindale abrasion tester
• TS EN ISO 12947-2 ... Section 2: Determination of sample rupture
• TS EN ISO 12947-3 ... Section 3: Determination of mass loss
• TS EN ISO 12947-4 ... Section 4: Assessment of change in appearance

The weight per square meter of fabric refers to the weight in grams of one square meter of woven or knitted fabrics. Fabric weight, fabric durability, water permeability, weaving shape, softness and many other performance features play an important role. The fabrics are expected to have different weights depending on the conditions of use and the place of use. The standard used in these tests is:

• TS ISO 3801 Textiles - Woven fabrics - Determination of unit length weight and unit area weight

One of the tests applied to fabrics is the bending strength test. In these tests, the resistance of a fabric cut into rectangular shapes to certain dimensions against bending under its own weight is determined. The standards used in these tests are:

• TS 1409 Determination of flexural strength of woven textile products
• BS 3356 Bending length and bending stiffness of fabrics

Tensile strength tests on fabrics are also important for the textile industry. These tests are generally applied to woven fabrics other than elastic fabrics, glass fiber fabrics and coated fabrics. The purpose of this test is to determine how long the fabric is lengthened under a large force applied to the fabrics. The standards used in these tests are:

• TS EN ISO 13934-1 Textiles - Tensile properties of fabrics - Part 1: Determination of maximum force and length elongation under maximum force by strip method
• TS EN ISO 13934-2 ... Section 2: Determination of the maximum force using the coupling method
• ASTM D5034 Tensile strength and elongation of textile fabrics - Bucket method
• ASTM D5035 Tensile strength and elongation of textile fabrics - Strip method

Textile Sector and Ecological Balance

The issue of ecological textiles has been on the agenda since the early 1990 years. This concept refers to the production of textiles suitable for human health and environmental conditions. There are many important factors in all stages of the production of textile products, from obtaining the raw material to the delivery of the finished product to consumers and then to waste. There are many points concerning ecological human health and nature such as chemicals, waste water, noise levels and flue gases released into the atmosphere.

In textile products made of cotton or different fibers, fiber production, processing, obtaining yarn, weaving or knitting of the fabric, pretreatments applied to the fabric, dye printing processes, finishing processes, finishing processes, packaging, even packaging materials and their waste conditions for human health and may be harmful to nature.

In order to prevent these damages, many standards are established. These standards prescribe certain limit values ​​for substances harmful to human health and require a number of tests and analyzes.

For example, research on the use of azo dyes in textile products has revealed many negative results and the production, use and introduction of azo dyes is prohibited in our country as in the European Union countries.

Ecological textile, quality control and research activities are supported by private and official institutions in our country.